6 steps for Pruning "Think of pruning as a process of elimination." I want to preface by saying that healthy pruning does not harm the tree. It improves the health and longevity of the tree. STEP 1 - (DEAD) Remove the dead branches for the health of the tree. Dead branches take away space for new branches to possibly grow and shade the healthy branches below them. Small dead branches attached to live branches are a detriment in winter storms. They provide a place for snow and ice to collect adding more unnecessary WEIGHT, (See Step 4). STEP 2 - (SUCKERS) Remove sucker growth from the base of the tree at the trunk. Then, remove sucker growth on branches. Sucker growth is easily identified by it's completely vertical growth habit. Suckers do exactly that, they suck the energy from the tree to produce healthy branches. Sucker growth is produced for different reasons depending on the type of the tree. It can be because the tree is under stress, (drought, heat, pests, and/or diseases), or it can be that species genetics. An example of a tree that genetically suckers is Crepe Myrtle. Crepe Myrtles when younger will sucker several times in one growing season. As Crepe Myrtles mature, the suckering lessens, so getting an early handle removing suckers makes maintaining a Crepe Myrtle easier for the long haul. Otherwise, you will have a Crepe Myrtle bush, (not attractive). Common examples of sucker growth from stress are Dogwood, Cherry, Apple, Crab Apple, and Flowering Pear. Some species produce both kinds of sucker growth. STEP 3 - (CROSSING) If two branches are crossing and touching, one branch needs to be removed because the wind will damage both branches and possibly kill both branches. Pull one of the branches aside, then the other to see which one has the least impact on the shape of the tree. Cut the branch that has the least impact on the aesthetics of the tree. STEP 4 - (SAFETY) - "Limb up" the tree. Consider the person mowing or maintaining the garden bed below. Remove lower branches as the tree gets taller each year. As the tree gets taller it will also get wider growing outside the mulch bed below. So cut the entire branch back to the trunk. Lower branches can be brought up just by taking WEIGHT off the ends of the branches. If a branch is hanging downward from the trunk of the tree, shortening the branch will bring it up. Always cut back to another intersecting branch, (axillary bud). Don't leave stubs at the end of the branch. The stubs will die. For most trees, new growth will not form at the end of the pruned branch. It will form at the intersecting branch/axillary bud. "Limbing up" also allows you to see the beautiful structure of the tree. STEP 5 - (WEIGHT) - This step is the most important step for the longevity of the tree. If branches are long and heavy they are susceptible to storm damage. Some trees have a tendency to grow wider than tall and may put out long heavy branches. It is a good idea to shorten longer branches to lessen the the weight. This is particularly true for faster growing trees such as White Pine, Bradford Pear, and Norway Maple. Faster growing trees have larger individual cells and looser cell structure. Therefore the branches are weaker and susceptible to breaking in a snow or ice load and/or windy conditions. Note: Other trees such as Leyland Cypress grow very fast but do not have extensive root systems and become sails in the wind. Trees along paved roads are susceptible because most of the structural root system is on the side away from the road. Once the mast to ballast ratio becomes out of balance and we get strong winds, the tree blows over. STEP 6 - (AESTHETICS) - Once you have completed steps 1-5, then you'll be able to see more clearly the tree shape. This step is a personal choice, but once you have eliminated the necessary pruning in steps 1-5, this step becomes much easier because most of the aesthetic pruning is already complete. Remember - "Pruning is a process of elimination. " NOTE: Take one step at a time. Steps 4 and 5 overlap a bit, but this is the approach I take when I prune. It makes the job of pruning less daunting. It also removes the emotions and inhibitions that are tied to the relationship between you and your tree. Yes, I said relationship. Most people I meet do not want to do the so called dirty work of pruning because they are afraid to harm the tree. **Of course, if after reading these steps you still don't want to prune your trees, call me. | 
